The Dyeing Art

Text and research by Eesha Ali & Muhammad Amir Photography by Tayyaba Khurram & Nabeel Aalim

Shutter o’clock: With the gradual fading of this profession, many colours are threatened to be lost

Rangrez—the name given to a dyer of clothes. This fading profession is currently heading towards blankness as these hand-colouring experts struggle due to the emergence of machines, colourists, and textile chemists.

With time, the community of cloth dyers in Pakistan is shifting from its traditional dyeing practices to the motorized dyeing process. Nevertheless, many are swimming against the tide and are still practicing the conventional dyeing process in the backyards of small shops.

Muhammad Farhan—the owner of the dyeing shop at Hyderi Market—shares the story of spending his life among colours. “We started our business of dyeing clothes 20–25 years ago; it was my grandfather’s business but after his death, my father continued the business, and now I am continuing it,” says Farhan. He adds that they initially opened two shops, one at Tariq Road, and the other at Hyderi. However, they had to shut down the outlet at Tariq Road due to several losses.

Muhammad Shahbaz—Farhan’s father—says, “I expect my son to save the fading community of dyers”.

Muhammad Farhan waiting for customers to arrive at his shop in the busy street of Hyderi market

Shahbaz poses while holding his latest dyed clothes

The charges are different for each type of dye. A single colour dye fee is Rs150, and Rs50 are paid for every additional colour. In comparison, the charges for white dupatta are from Rs300-3000. The dyers’ community usually starts working at 12pm on weekdays; the working hours vary depending upon the number of orders.

Different colours are used for different dyes, and every colour has its own uniqueness

A variety of shades of white cloths for dyeing

The blending of colour occurs in warm water present in aluminium tubes. The colouring can then occur in mono-shading or multi-colour. But before the dyeing process begins on clothes, the fabric is estimated and checked with the request sheet. The request sheet itself is exceptionally fascinating and comprises of bits of paper with the length of crude materials composed. The bits of paper along with the materials are stapled around the request sheet paper—like strips—to indicate the type of colouring which needs to be done on the cloth.

The process of mixing colour in hot water to dye white cloth

Matching the sample; if one mixes a wrong colour then they have to recreate it

According to Farhan, it takes a lot of hard work to achieve a different matching colour. “It is a form of art that needs a creative mind," he adds.

These days, chemical dyes are used instead of organic dyes. There are two types of colour dyes—both in powdered forms. One of them is mixed with hot water while the other with cold water. The colours have to be measured and mixed in the right proportion. The wrong assembling can lead to unwanted hues and tinges.

“I have been working here since I was young and handsome,” says Shabbir, a 65-year-old man. He adds that he prefers to live among these shades and hues as his soul is dyed with the colours.

“I know there is not much of an income, but I can proudly say that I have lived a happy and colourful life—surrounded with colours,” he shares, adding that he wants his children to work here too and continue his legacy.

Shabbir spends most of his time inside this small workshop—located at the backside of the shop

Shabbir dyeing clothes at his workshop

After the colouring is finished, the fabric is put into a drying machine. The drying process is the same as of clothes’ drying.

The process of drying clothes; a primeval washing machine

Identical dupattas in abundance for the wedding season

After colouring textures with one tone, the same water can be recycled and utilized for dyeing red colour or some other similar shaded textures. It requires the discerning eyes and skilled hands of an experienced professional. The cloth pieces are submerged in colouring pools in due course and are then mixed until they reach the exact desired shades.

Farhan shares that the major problems they face are water shortages and wastage. Water plays an essential part in the art of dyeing clothes, but it comes in line only twice a week for five hours a day.

Water wastage and shortage is a major issue

Water is needed at every stage of dyeing clothes

Clothes are left for drying in the sunlight

In the end, the colourful clothes are left to dry for 4–5 hours, depending on the sunlight. Multi-coloured clothes are hung on the ropes to provide the workers and customers with a cheerful and high-spirited ambience.